I'm wondering if Brisbane was somehow annexed as the 52nd State of
the United States, as with the amount of US style dining options now available,
it's certainly starting to feel like it. Be it a burger, a hot dog or
southern style cooking, there now seems to be an endless array of American
dining. While this is not necessarily a new thing, think about the
McDonalds invasion in the 80's and then Subway in the late 90's, it is
definitely entered our dining consciousness like never before.
One of the coolest restaurants around, and one
of my favourites, is Public down at George Street (see post here). Bonnie
Shearston and Tom Sanceau, the team behind what was voted the best new
restaurant a few years ago, have kicked off another venture that is a little
more casual than Public. Located in Gresham Lane, Red Hook Brisbane is
the latest restaurant to fly the United States banner, this time with down to
earth New York style street food.
Gresham Lane is home to some of Brisbane's busiest lunchtime destinations and Red Hook has taken the last
vacant space to be developed, at the site where it was once rumoured that
Melbourne's Taxi would set up shop. With the addition of Red Hook, the
lane has quietly gone from lunchtime mecca spot to showing hints that a thriving
night time trade could one day reign supreme. Along with the Gresham
whisky bar, Red Hook is open for extended hours, and has been doing a pretty
decent dinner trade as well as a pretty manic lunch.
The restaurant itself doesn't take up too much
room, with a smallish front of house and a moderate sized kitchen out the back.
What the team at Red Hook have done though, is create a great little spot
by creating a completely alfresco dining experience. There's room for
about twenty five to sit down and enjoy a meal, which is pretty much packed
each week day during the lunch rush, and a little bit easier to get a table if
you head along mid week for dinner. Oh, I forgot to mention the best bit
(if you love a beer), it's also a bar that has a decent cocktail menu as well
as serving beer on tap.
Normally when I write about a
restaurant or cafe, I just head over, get as many different courses and
servings as possible and compose a post. I decided to take a slightly
different approach with Red Hook... Instead of one visit, I've been for a
few meals, all at different times of the day and night, including take away.
I've also gone in different social situations, dinner with SC and then an
after work meeting with colleagues, so I've now had several different
dining experiences to share.
Busy lunch time - take away
Red Hook had only been open a
few days when I had my first experience. I was walking back to the office
from meetings at the 'top end of town' and cut down my usual shortcut back to
the office via Gresham Lane. I'd been keeping an eye on the construction
and was stoked to see that it was finally open. It was really easy to
spot too, there was a massive queue of people waiting to order and an even
bigger group waiting for their food to be served up.
I jumped in the queue and while
I was waiting to be served, got my first glimpse of the menu, which read like a
who's who of American Street food. While there were a few items that I'd
love to have tried, once I saw that there was a lobster roll on offer, it was 'a fait accompli' - lobster roll it was.
The queue to take orders ran through pretty quickly but the wait to pick
up was a little longer, in fact it was about twenty minutes before my 'number
was up'.
I was handed a
white styrofoam container and made my way back to the office, where I
greedily opened the lid to reveal my lobster roll. Now, I have to admit
to going on a lobster roll rampage when I was in New York last year, it was lobster
season and just about every restaurant had one on the menu. I had visions
of those beautifully chocked lobster rolls with heaps of that red flesh that
tastes 'oh-so-sweet', so I was a little bummed when I opened the container.
Inside was the requisite toasted brioche roll, but there was no obvious
lobster on show. Instead was a heap of white filling and a heap of green
garnish. It's not that it didn't look OK, its just not what I was
expecting. That carried through when I took my first bite, it really
didn't have a predominant taste, except for mayonnaise.
I think if I'd never been to NYC and had so many
lobster rolls, I would have been happy with the Red Hook version. It did
seem to have a lot of flesh, albeit shredded and slathered in mayonnaise,
but it just wasn't the same.
Early Dinner with SC
We'd been racing around trying to get stuff done
for the sale of our apartment. It had been quite a busy and stressful day
and SC had finished work quite late. We didn't have a heap of time and
needed to get some groceries before continuing on with our manic day. As
we were rushing down Queen Street, we noticed that Red Hook was open for dinner
as well, so we thought 'what the heck', well we actually said
something unprintable, but you get the message.
We wandered down the dark and quite lonely
Gresham Lane to the shining beacon that was Red Hook. Wow, it was a
completely different crowd. During the busy lunch period, it was all
suits and city workers but at night, the hipster crowd had moved in. Seriously,
there were a lot of beards on show and I think I may have even seen a bow tie!
It was my first opportunity to sit down and have a good look at the set
up, without having a couple dozen hungry customers waiting for their lunch.
Red Hook has lots of brass and wood as part of
the facade, with a cool looking brass name plate that doubled as the
restaurant's logo clearly on display. It looked different at night, kind of
more low key and subdued and the dining area felt less hectic, much more like a
sit down restaurant. The dinner menu didn't seem to be different from the
lunch menu, and given we were in a rush, we just ordered a couple of burgers,
the Brooklyn Cheeseburger for me and the Grandmaster Flash for SC. There
may have even been a beer on order for the girl....
The burgers came wrapped and looked identical
and were fairly similar, the main difference being the Grandmaster Flash had
some lettuce and tomato included. I'd ordered my cheeseburger without
pickles and had received no grief at all (see grief post here). After unwrapping the burgers, they
certainly looked the goods, with thick meat patties and sauce dripping down the
side. It didn't take long to realise there was something not quite right
about them, the buns were pretty hard and clearly stale. I managed to
have a few bites before giving up but SC wasn't having a bar-of-it and declared
that she wasn't going to eat it at all (only after one bite).
It was a shame, the flavours were good and I ate
a bit more of my meat patty, but as an overall burger, it didn't come close to
some of the burgers we'd been eating lately (even the Ben's burger). When our
waitress came around and asked us what we thought of the burgers, we provided
some honest feedback that the buns were stale and that we couldn't really eat
them. It was a moment of truth (in service terms) and unfortunately it
was a fail. Our waitress simply confirmed that there had been problems
with their bun delivery and they knew the batch wasn't so good!
A key point here is, if you know your buns are
not up to standard, take them off the menu for the day, I would be more
understanding of that. Also, given that we'd hardly touched the burgers
and our waitress had admitted the buns were not right, a good service
experience would have been to refund the burgers or at the very least, bring
out some extra drinks. Something to think about Red Hook.
After Work Meeting - over drinks
With the burger fail fresh in my mind, I took a
risk recommending Red Hook to some colleagues as a good spot to meet and get some work
done in a more relaxed environment. It was mainly based on the back of it
being a central spot in the CBD but I'd spied a menu item that I was really
keen to check out before I made my final decision on Red Hook.
It was about 4pm on a pleasant afternoon, the
sun was warm, without being hot. It was in between busy periods for Red
Hook, well past the lunch time rush, but before dinner and drinks time.
There were four of us meeting to work out some details about an executive
breakfast, I won't bore you with the details, but suffice to say, it was beer
o'clock for the group. I was the only one not drinking as well as the
only person ordering some food - a pre dinner snack!
The bar menu is not too bad at Red Hook, with
quite a few drinks options including a nice selection of beers, some great
looking cocktails (including alcoholic shakes) and a few wines worth quaffing.
Probably the only thing missing from the menu are some smoothies, which
I'd love to see added to the menu for those of us that don't drink. I'm
definitely very far removed from being an expert on wine but I was surprised to
see the whites ordered coming in normal glasses, as opposed to wine glasses.
It didn't seem to bother the table, but I think it would have made SC
cringe!
The menu item that had caught my eye was the wagyu brisket
burrito; slow cooked wagyu brisket wrapped in a tortilla with a hot sauce and
coleslaw. Like many of the Red Hook dishes, it came presented wrapped in
wax paper with the RH logo prominently displayed. I was a bit hungry, so
I quickly tore off the wrapper so I could get stuck into the beautiful beefy
goodness of the brisket. And it was good, very good! The tender
wagyu brisket had lots of flavour and worked really well with the hot sauce and
the cooling coleslaw. There was a moment where a huge concentration of
the hot sauce kicked my mouth into survival mode, but on the whole, it was a
good burrito.
My overall impressions of Red Hook is that it's a funky little
restaurant in quite an unusual spot. I'm hoping that a few more people
take the risk and open up after hours around Gresham Lane because at the moment
there is only the bar and Red Hook to bring people in after normal business
hours. I'm not completely sold on the menu though, there seems to be a
little room for improvement but perhaps my view was slanted by prior experience
in the States for the lobster roll and the stale buns on the burger.
It's really important that cool little spots get it right.
At the moment, it's one of the hottest lunch time spots in that little
neck of the woods in the CBD, but that could change if the little details don't
get looked at. The burger buns being the prime example.
Despite the burger experience, I've found the staff to be really
friendly at Red Hook, and it's amazing to see how many people they can jam
behind the counter and in the kitchen during the busy lunch period.
I'm probably not going to go back for a burger at Red Hook, there
are way too many better burger spots around town, but there is enough in the
USA style street food menu to keep coming back and checking out. I'm
particularly interested in checking out their Kung Fu Duck Tacos - just the name
gets me!
The wagyu brisket burrito is my favourite menu item so far |
It's plenty tasty and packs a punch |
Sure, it looks cool, but is wine in this type of glass ok? |
A quiet time at Red Hook - early or late is the best time to go - during lunch its completely packed! |
Its a small space with a small kitchen out the back - you might need to wait for a while |
I had similar thoughts after going to an American place in the Valley that I'd really been looking forward to visiting. It wasn't bad but the details were lacking... food wasn't that hot, fries were wilted rather than crispy, one of the main meals at $34 was pretty light on portion wise. With so much really awesome USA food in Brisbane these days, it's the details that will determine whether a place survives.
ReplyDeleteThat said, I'm going to meet a colleague in that vicinity tomorrow for lunch so we may check it out. I am currently obsessed with beef brisket so that alone would do me for a Friday lunch :)
I hope you enjoy your lunch! It's still early days, plenty of potential, but plenty of competition too!
DeleteWe will be there soon with my friends. I will share some pictures, I can imagine how enjoy we are...
ReplyDeleteCool, will be interested to see the latest photos!
Delete